Day 10 - The Peak District

A mostly overcast, but dry day as we toured around the Peak District. After breakfast, we climbed in the car and headed north to view the "peaks.". We'd allotted about 2 hours to do this and planned to eat in Castleton; however, the scenery just wasn't all that great and we were in Castleton after only 45 minutes. This was a neat little town located in rolling hills on the border between the "dark" and "white" peaks. The difference is due to the rock underground. White is limestone and gritstone is dark.

We decided to climb up to Peveril Castle, one of England's earliest Norman fortresses. The keep within the fortress was built on orders from Henry II in 1176. As we started climbing, we quickly noted this was a far harder climb than Arthur's Seat or York Minster! The incline was quite great, but the view from the top, was spectacular. Most of the keep is still intact although much of the exterior limestone has peeled away. As we went back down the hill we decided to stop in Bakewell for lunch (home of Bakewell Pudding).

As we drove to Bakewell, Alaine read in her guide book that the Peak District is not called that for its peaks, but instead in honor of an Anglo-Saxon tribe that lived in the area, the Pecsaetans. We were disappointed as we'd hope for craggy mountain views. Upon arriving in Bakewell we discovered this town was packed with people. After trying to get a table at three restaurants, we finally got seated at the original (this is debated) Bakewell Pudding restaurant. Our lunch was great, but our pudding took forever to arrive and when it did, it was mediocre at best. I can say I've had this pudding and won't need to have it again. After finally getting out off Bakewell (did I mention it was packed?), we headed to Haddon Hall.

Haddon Hall is a medieval manor house that has been left intact. In other words, the house is presented without any changes (except electricity, water, etc) as it was in the 12th - 17th centuries. I've never visited a house that had done this and I must say it was fabulous. The house and floorboards are uneven and you can see traffic patterns of the nobility and the staff. The gardens at this house weren't as big as Chatsworth (yesterday), but we're better quality. Impressively, the kitchen still has all the original wood counters on which meals were prepared. Cuts, dings, and nicks are evident and you can just tell these folks ate well. After we marveled at the house and grounds, we stopped at the cafe for afternoon tea and scones.

We decided to make it a short day since we've been pushing pretty hard for 10 days, so we headed back to the hotel. Tomorrow we arrive in Cambridge we're I'll attend Evensong at King's College. Their choir is world-renowned and I can't wait to hear them live.

Cheers from the land of Jubilee!

 

Day 9 - York, Chatsworth House, and Buxton

A bright yellow orb along with a very blue sky awoke me this morning! I instantly warmed up. Because of the special services at York Minster yesterday, we had to delay our tour until this morning. With the sun, I was finally able to get some great shots of the minster and continued to be astounded by the size from the outside. After buying our tickets (including ascending the main tower), we roamed the minster on our own. I thought I had seen big churches before, but wow, this took the cake! One of the first stained glass panels I saw indicated it was installed in 1310, refurbished in 1789, and again in 1950. There are tombs, memorials, artifacts, and stained glass everywhere. The rose window (south side high above the floor) was amazing. Northeast of the main sanctuary is the Chapter House. This is a smaller room that has many stained glass panels and an intricate floor; however, the most impressive thing is the ceiling. The room was completed in 1286 and it has changed very little. This was a very spiritual place.

By 10:00, it was time for us to climb the main tower. There are 200+ steps in an old spiral turret that lead to the top. Keep in mind these were built for shorter, slimmer folks! Fortunately I'm not claustrophobic, but it was a tight fit in some spaces. After climbing for about 5-8 minutes, we reached the top. I was disappointed that they have encased the entire viewing platform in chain link. I suppose they didn't want things to be thrown off the tower. The view from up above the minster was spectacular! I'm so glad the sun had come out and the low gray clouds had moved off.

After descending the tower (MUCH faster) I took another 30 minutes to wander around the minster. I was able to photograph in the choir area where Evensong was held the previous night. The woodwork and stonework are unbelievably detailed and delicate. After visiting the gift shop, we had to be on our way. York Minster has been one of the best things on my trip so far. I'm forever grateful to have visited it.

Our next stop was Chatsworth House located at the entrance to the Peak District. This house is owned by the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, having been in their family since 1549. We didn't take the house tour, but we did walk around the gardens which cover 105 acres! It was a great, but busy day to visit as it was a national holiday in the UK. We saw really neat landscapes, walked through a maze, and viewed a wonderful water feature. We even snacked on crisps (potato chips) and Coke (which is quite different here).

Our hotel is in Buxton tonight and after dinner, we walked around the main gardens. We drive into the heart of the Peak District tomorrow and visit Bakewell where we'll try to have afternoon tea with Bakewell pudding.

Cheers from the UK!