Showing posts with label Devon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Devon. Show all posts

Monday, October 05, 2015

Day 4 - Lynmouth, Dunster Castle, & Tintern Abbey

World-class hotel at Lynmouth and not nearly enough time to sightsee means I'll definitely be back here. Wow...it is so beautiful. Lynmouth sits at sea level with the Bristol Channel lapping at the beach and tall, sharp hills surround it in the other directions. It's a fabulous seaside town.

Once we headed out, we backtracked a bit, but the views from the top of Countisbury Hill were unreal and heavenly. I think Marianne might be having a moment in the one shot below.

Our first stop of the day was Dunster Castle. The site was first occupied as a Saxon hill fort 1,000 years ago. Upon entering, a 13th century gateway greets you as the oldest remaining piece on the land. In 1571, the Luttrell family bought it and started extensive renovations. This family lived here for over 600 years! A school group was visiting today and you'll see below, they decided to practice jousting on the front lawn.
 
A medieval village is a short, but steep walk down from the castle so we made the trek, grabbed some Cornish pasties (pronounced pass-tees), crisps (potato chips), and some drinks. After a picnic in the car we headed north to Wales and Tintern Abbey.

Tintern is another magical ruined abbey. It's skeleton is more intact than Glastonbury and it's settled on the banks of the Wye River. We are lucky to be here now as some of the trees are turning a beautiful yellow and red. The abbey was established in 1131 and was destroyed by Henry VIII in 1536. The towering stone framework is impressive to behold and is now also serving as a place that gulls and other birds nest and feed: always fun for someone who isn't big on birds! While near where the altar would have been, I pulled out my iPhone and did a search for Gregorian chat music. Sure enough, I had a song in my phone so I pressed play and just imagined monks in the abbey. The song lasted about 40 seconds and was unfortunately included on a Halloween sound effect CD I downloaded years ago. After the chanting stopped, the next piece automatically played. It was called Evil Demon Chat. A quick fumble for my off button did nothing to help the ruined moment!

After some tea, we jetted on to Hay-on-Wye. Our B&B tonight is fantastic! We'll explore the town and its bookshops tomorrow. Until the morrow...

 

Day 3 - Wells, Glastonbury, & Lynmouth

As you may have guessed, I failed to post last night due to us staying up way too late chatting with new acquaintances at our B&B. But, we did have a lovely day yesterday. After a great breakfast, we loaded our bags into Phoebe and headed off down the road to Wells Cathedral. Being good Episcopalians, we arrived fashionably late by thirty minutes to the Holy Eucharist service which happened to honor St. Francis of Assisi. I've previously participated in an evensong service at the Church of England, but this was my first full-on regular service. Incense, an amazing choir, and people happy to have American visitors made for a great morning. And thank goodness we were at the back of the church so we could figure out the "how-to" of taking communion (very slightly different than we are used to).

Wells was begun in 1175 and was the first cathedral in England built in the Gothic style. Unlike many of its counterparts, Wells was not destroyed by Henry VIII during the Protstant Reformation. Its West Front is unique in that it contains nearly 300 medieval statues of various figures in Christianity. The front is also different than other cathedrals as it's more flat-fronted and it faces an open green area where we saw kids flying kites and dogs chasing each other while parents and owners looked on.

On the north side of the cathedral is the Vicar's Close, built in 1348. The houses in this area were for the men who sang in the choir so they could live communally. Now, I'm in the choir at St. Peter's in Conway and while I like my fellow singers, I think communal living might not make us bond over song...just saying. I love the lines involved in the architecture of the Close.

After a quick walk back to the car, we headed for Glastonbury and lunch. Arriving for lunch on a Sunday in England is problematic if you want a sit-down place. Brits like to have "Sunday roast" and nearly every seat is taken in restaurants. We found a pub, however, and during our hour and 20 minute wait for lunch (yep...really...and not just us) we people watched through the window. Glastonbury has cosmic energy according to many so it has become a counter-culture haven. We saw many dreadlocks, hippies, probably witches, senior citizens (concessioners in England), teens, and toddlers stroll by. Cigarette smoke, hookah smoke, incense, and I'm sure other types of smoke waft across the streets and down alleys. The highlight of our wait was seeing a Hare Krishna parade including a single float come down the street.

After lunch we headed to Glastonbury Abbey which was originally built in the 10th century, but fire destroyed most of it in 1184. The current ruined structure was completed in 1213. It remained an active monestary and abbey until Henry VIII came along in the 1530s and destroyed the it, took the led and other valuables from them, and scattered the abbots, monks, and nuns throughout the region. The remains of Glastonbury Abbey are set off from the city by a wall and truly once you're inside, the rest of the world disappears. This place has historical, spiritual, and religious meaning and it never fails to make an impression upon me. And mythically, King Arthur and Guinivere are buried here...maybe even St. Patrick (the staff won't directly answer if you ask them). Glastonbury Abbey also has an apple orchard which just happened to be blooming its fruit currently.

 

We then booked our way over to Lynmouth in Devon on the Bristol Channel. This was a new area for me, and I must say, I fell in love with it. What a tremendously cool area. Anyone want to split a house purchase? We stayed at the Rock House Hotel with a wonderful staff and owner. A fantastic evening wrapped up very late in the night. Next up Countisbury Hill, Dunster Castle, and Tintern Abbey.

 

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